Our Amazon expedition began with days of preparation in the sweltering town of Mitú, Colombia. Equipped with a modest dugout canoe and essential supplies, we set off, only to face an immediate disaster when our overloaded canoe capsized in the Rio Negro. This brush with death prompted us to enlist a Brazilian boat captain, but plans took a twist when we found ourselves abandoned in the remote community of Tainá. Surviving on minimal food, including worm-infested fish, we navigated rapids and encountered frequent checks by Brazilian soldiers. Awaiting the aid of a seasoned pastor from São Gabriel, we learned invaluable lessons in resilience and adaptability. Despite the hardships, the true essence of our Amazon adventure was just beginning.

As we ventured into the centre of the river, disaster struck. The canoe, far too small for our load, capsized almost immediately. In those frantic moments, as the river swallowed us, I experienced the closest brush with death I have ever had. Despite my previous life-threatening experiences, both in expeditions and otherwise, this was a matter of mere seconds. On returning to the UK, I have since made it a point to swim at every opportunity, a testament to how profoundly this incident affected me.

Embarking on a six-week expedition through the dense and untamed jungles of Colombia’s Vaupés region into Brazil’s vast Amazonas was a journey that tested my limits, reshaped my perceptions, and immersed me in the vibrant tapestry of local cultures and landscapes. Joined by a journalist for the initial five days, we meticulously documented our adventure, capturing the essence of this extraordinary experience.

I board the GM Oliveira in the bustling market city of Manaus, the capital of Brazil’s Amazonas state. On the banks of the Rio Negro, this port-city is right in the heart of the world’s most famous rainforest.

People have lived in Manaus since 1669 and over the course of the last 350 years it’s built a reputation as a cultural, research and industrial hub. It’s home to the Amazon Arena, which hosted matches in the 2014 FIFA World Cup.

The city’s zoo and botanical gardens are also popular with tourists, but I want to get closer to the rainforest and the river is the best way.

I sort my ticket for the seven-day trip West to Leticia through a local vendor. If you’re interested in how to get tickets

Travelling West up the Amazon River from Manaus to the Tabatinga-Leticia border is a unique way to cross the border whilst absorbing the culture of local Amazonians, and gaining a real respect for the majestic rainforest river.
You won’t find tickets for sale online. To experience this trip, you really need to think and act like a local.
There are only two ships that take the seven-day journey on a (semi-)regular basis, and a smaller boat covers the route in five days by cutting out a few stops on the way.